Pasta · Lombardy
Tortelli di Zucca Recipe: Mantuan Pumpkin Pasta
Fresh tortelli hold roasted squash, amaretti, and Parmesan, then get a browned-butter and sage finish that keeps this sweet-savory Lombard pasta balanced.
By Lucia Moretti · · Editorial policy
Tortelli di zucca are fresh pasta parcels filled with sweet-savory squash, amaretti, and cheese, served with butter and sage. They are typical of Mantua in Lombardy, where the filling often includes mostarda, a mustard-spiked fruit preserve. This home-friendly version leaves it out and lets roasted squash, crisp amaretti, and nutmeg do the balancing act.
The key is to roast the squash until its surface looks dry and its edges begin to brown. Watery filling leaks from the pasta; a thick one stays put. I mix in breadcrumbs only after the squash has cooled, then roll the dough thin and seal each parcel firmly. That last part is not fussy work, just insurance against pumpkin soup in your pasta pot.
The butter-and-sage finish is simple, so brown the butter gently until it smells nutty and the milk solids turn golden. For another Lombard pasta, see [Authentic Pizzoccheri della Valtellina](authentic-pizzoccheri-della-valtellina); [Easy Risotto alla Milanese](easy-risotto-alla-milanese) is worth saving for a separate meal. This version works because roasting concentrates the squash before the filling goes anywhere near the pasta.
More pasta to cook next: Tajarin with Porcini Mushrooms, Agnolotti del Plin with Roast Meat, Lasagna Bolognese.
The recipe
Tortelli di Zucca
Ingredients
for 4 servingsMethod
Heat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Toss the squash with the olive oil, spread it in one layer on a sheet pan, and roast until very tender with browned edges, about 35 minutes. This step takes about 45 minutes including oven preheating.
Make the dough. Mound 300 g (about 2½ cups) of the flour on a clean work surface and make a well. Add the eggs and 3 g salt to the well, beat them with a fork, then gradually draw in the flour. Knead until smooth and firm, about 8 minutes; add a little water if it will not come together, or a light dusting of flour if sticky. Cover and wash your hands and work surface after handling raw egg. Allow about 15 minutes.
Wrap the dough tightly and let it rest at room temperature for 30 minutes. The dough should feel more relaxed and roll without springing back.
Cool the squash until no longer steaming, about 15 minutes. Mash it smooth, then mix in the crushed amaretti, Parmesan, nutmeg, and salt. Add breadcrumbs a spoonful at a time until the filling is thick enough to hold a mound on a spoon. This step takes about 25 minutes including cooling.
Roll and fill the tortelli. Divide the dough into four pieces and keep the pieces you are not using covered. Roll one piece thin, about 1 mm, using a pasta machine or rolling pin. Place teaspoon-sized mounds of filling about 1½ inches apart, fold the dough over, press out air around each mound, and seal firmly. Cut into squares and set them on a lightly floured tray. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling; allow about 40 minutes.
Bring 4 quarts (3.8 liters) of water and 1 tablespoon (15 g) salt to a boil in a large pot. This usually takes about 10 minutes.
Lower the tortelli into the boiling water in batches so the pot is not crowded. Cook for about 3 minutes, until the pasta is tender and the parcels float. Check one parcel with an instant-read thermometer; the filling should reach 160°F (71°C) because the pasta dough contains egg. Lift them out gently with a slotted spoon.
Brown the butter while the tortelli cook. Melt it in a wide skillet over medium heat, add the sage, and cook until the butter smells nutty and its milk solids are golden, about 4 to 5 minutes. Add the drained tortelli and turn them gently in the butter. Serve with the remaining Parmesan.
Where it goes wrong
| If you see | It’s because | Do this |
|---|---|---|
| The filling is loose or leaks through the pasta. | Why The squash was still watery, or too few breadcrumbs were added. | Fix Roast the squash until its edges brown, let it cool, and add breadcrumbs until the filling holds its shape. |
| The dough cracks while rolling. | Why It is too dry or has not rested long enough. | Fix Cover it for another 10 minutes. If it still cracks, knead in a few drops of water. |
| The tortelli open in the pot. | Why Air was trapped around the filling or the edges were not sealed firmly. | Fix Press from beside the filling outward to push out air, then seal the edges with firm, even pressure. |
| The pasta turns gummy or sticks together. | Why The pot was crowded or the tortelli sat damp on the tray. | Fix Cook in batches, keep the tray lightly floured, and move cooked tortelli straight into the butter. |
| The filling tastes bland or too sweet. | Why Squash varies in sweetness, and the filling was not tasted before shaping. | Fix Taste the cooled filling and adjust the salt and nutmeg before filling the pasta. |
Questions
Can I make tortelli di zucca ahead?
Yes, you can assemble them a few hours ahead. Arrange them in a single layer on a floured tray, cover loosely, and refrigerate; cook straight from the refrigerator.
Can I freeze tortelli di zucca?
Yes, freeze the uncooked tortelli in a single layer until firm, then transfer them to a freezer bag. Cook from frozen in gently boiling water, adding a few minutes and checking that the filling reaches 160°F (71°C).
What can I use instead of amaretti?
Use plain fine breadcrumbs and a small pinch of sugar if you do not have amaretti. The flavor will be less almond-like, but the filling will still hold together.
How do I know when tortelli are cooked?
They are ready when the pasta is tender and the parcels float, usually after about 3 minutes. Check one parcel to confirm the filling reaches 160°F (71°C).
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